THE CAPITAL TIMES: STEPHANIE BEDFORD |

Posted: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 9:00 am

VIROQUA — There are lots of cutesy names for people who gravitate toward food grown or raised not too far from home, without pesticides or antibiotics. Between foodies, locavores and farm-to-table advocates, it can be hard to stay abreast of the trendy taxonomy for what once upon a time, before refrigerated boxcars and overnight shipping and Hot Pockets, were just called “eaters.”

Madisonians who want a heightened sense of connection to the source of their food are luckier than most urban dwellers. Our fair city is located smack in the middle of some of the most fertile — and picturesque — agricultural land in the lower 48. Viroqua, located less than two hours west of Madison, is a perfect spot to take in the glories of a landscape where not only is the corn currently as high as an elephant’s eye, you can dine in style only a stone’s throw from the farm where it was cultivated.

Optimo Café, in the middle of Viroqua’s main drag, is the kind of restaurant travelers might be surprised to see in a small town. After all, only recently have back road travelers had any reasonable expectation of finding a latté outside of major urban centers. But a perusal of the menu immediately gives the lie to the presumption that a town this small lacks culinary sophistication. The restaurant’s motto — “Soul, Sustenance, Seasons” — is a reflection of its commitment to using local produce to craft a seasonal menu that showcases the best Wisconsin has to offer.

Optimo is located in the historic Viroqua Public Market, a space that contains a charming, ramshackle assemblage of antique booths, local arts and crafts, an independent bookstore and a psychic, all anchored by a grand stone fountain. The vibe is something akin to Willy Street dropped in the middle of Mayberry, a place where a Ten Commandments billboard and strings of Tibetan prayer flags can be found on the same block. I’m pretty sure Viroqua is the smallest town in the United States where a djembe can be purchased.

The menu is the perfect expression of this small town/big planet ethos, featuring Cajun aioli, house-made ciabatta, and enough vegan and gluten-free options to satisfy even the most particular appetite. Prominent on the lunch menu is the 1/3-pound burger made with local, grass-fed beef — cheddar-bacon and blue cheese and bacon varieties are available for $7.50, with seasonal greens and house-made ketchup.

Optimo is not messing around when it comes to making most of their food on-site. I went for the calzone (base price $7, with an additional 50 cents for vegetable and $1 for meat add-ons), which is said to take 15-20 minutes to be delivered from the kitchen. I take such warnings as evidence the dish is being made to order, and was not disappointed. The Optimo calzone is a generous serving of local cheese and vegetables wrapped in a steamy, crispy dough that’s soft and chewy but not wimpy. Pesto added brilliant green color and fresh flavor to the filling (tomato sauce is also available).

Because the cooks at Optimo are nothing if not overachievers, there’s also a selection of house-made baked goods to enjoy as you make your way back through the Driftless Area to Madison. Cookies are $1 apiece; the salted chocolate chip is a standout. For $3, you can get a triple-chocolate mocha brownie of Brobdingnagian proportions (ours served three).

If you’re headed to Viroqua to visit your CSA farm or canoe the Kickapoo River, stop by Optimo for a meal that was practically grown out the back door.

4/29/2011   Contact: Tony Hozeny, Department of Commerce, 608/267-9661

MADISON – The Wisconsin Department of Commerce recognized the best downtown revitalization projects of 2010 at the 21st Annual Wisconsin Main Street Awards on Friday, April 29, 2011 at the Historic Turner Hall in Watertown, Wisconsin.

"The results of the Wisconsin Main Street program have been impressive and are illustrated through the great projects that are being honored tonight," said Commerce Secretary Paul F. Jadin. "I congratulate the winners and the great volunteers and staff members that make it happen."

This year’s theme is "A Billion Reasons to Celebrate" highlighting the more than $1.1 billion impact on the state of Wisconsin through its public and private reinvestment. Since the program’s inception in 1988, the state’s Main Street communities have attracted 4,122 new businesses, 18,280 new jobs.

The 2010 award recipients are as follows:

Best New Downtown Business  (Co-winner)

Optimo Farm Market Restaurant and Café - Viroqua

[Full Press Release: http://wispolitics.com/index.iml?Article=235050]

By Emily Joy Rozeske

Optimo Café – Seasonal, Local Fare with Feeling
My parents came to stay in Viroqua last weekend and as always we ended up with quite a full schedule.  On Sunday morning, in lieu of cooking a feast, we opted to try Optimo Farm-Market Restaurant & Café on Main Street for brunch.  Optimo Café is a new Macasaet family endeavor that occupies the former space of Greenman Music Hall, located between Viva Gallery and Dairyland Printing right on Main Street.

Right as we entered the restaurant, I was pleasantly surprised by the quiet richness of the interior.  The warm wood tones and the red accents were very welcoming and the space felt big and airy as the hostess welcomed us to the restaurant and showed us to our seat. 

We ended up in a nice, spacious booth by the front window with what appeared to be an avocado tree sharing the sunlight of the bright morning.  I noted that the benches were made locally by Mike & Lisa Riley, proprietors of Saving Grace Furniture.  (Find them at the Viroqua Saturday Farmers Market)  I knew that Optimo Café strived to offer as many local ingredients in their food as possible but it was great that even elements within the restaurant were locally produced. 

We were seated in a booth next to another party, but for the entirety of our meal I did not hear any of their conversation.  The restaurant leaves adequate space between the tables and high back booths creating the feeling of a private dining experience.  Throughout our meal there were probably seven other parties enjoying breakfast and I can honestly say that my attention was never drawn away from our table by the commotion and conversation that plagues many restaurant dining rooms. 

The wait staff was very attentive and worked as a cohesive team bringing our food to the table, refilling our coffee and clearing the plates when we had finished.  They were relaxed, professional and attentive; I was impressed for the restaurant having been open for just one week! 

The food was very fresh, flavorful and perfectly cooked.  Highlights for me were the bacon in my omelet, full of flavor and cooked just right, the hearty homemade bread and the colossal blueberry muffin that I had to try because it promised to be delicious.  The muffin lived up to its promise; its shear size lending itself well to sharing and among the five of us, it went quickly. 

I expect and choose to pay more for locally made and produced products and food but I was amazed at how reasonable the prices were for brunch.  Our first visit to Optimo was delightful and well worth having the morning off from cooking and clean up.
 
Optimo Café is a great addition to Main Street and delivered on the soul, sustenance and seasonality that they advertise.  I am excited to try their “tasting menu” for dinner and experience the full menu of American and International flavors.